2010 Champagne Dom Ruinart

94P+: Lightly burnished gold with a fine column of persistent bubbles, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2010 Extra Brut is a Grand Cru blend with 90% Côte des Blancs fruit and 10% from Sillery in Montagne de Riems. It was fermented in stainless steel before aging a minimum of nine years under cork and finished with a four grams per liter dosage. Expressive from the start, it opens to complex aromas of toasty brioche, lemon tart, creme fraiche and subtle hints of smoke. Medium-bodied with a supple acid frame, it has an understated richness and a very creamy, vibrant and ripe yellow apple palate that finishes long and fresh.

Almost like a white, with a smoky and flinty nose. Dried lemons, cedar, smoked almonds, spiced apples, hazelnuts, salted butter and toast. Tangy and sharp, yet creamy and buttery, too, with fine bubbles. Hazelnuts at the end. Disgorged in February 2021.

The first vintage since the 1960s to see tirage under natural cork in lieu of crown caps, the 2010 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in November 2021. It's showing nicely, over-performing for the vintage, displaying aromas of yellow orchard fruit, toasted nuts, spices, smoke, dried white flowers and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and layered, with impressive concentration and chalky structure, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

The 2010 Dom Ruinart is starting to open up nicely. There's still plenty of the intense, chalky minerality and energy the wine showed last year, but also a bit more mid-palate richness to balance things out. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, slate and white pepper are some of the many aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. As good as the 2010 is today, I imagine it will be even better in another few years' time. As I have written previously, the 2010 Dom Ruinart is one of the most impressive Champagnes ever made here. If there is anything better, I don't think I have tasted it!