2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1. Cru Les Damodes Domaine de La Vougeraie

Located on the border with Vosne on very poor soils, this is another delicious wine from Pierre Vincent. Spicy whole bunch notes, with some white pepper for good measure, are complemented by toasty oak, subtle red fruit sweetness and a long, nuanced finish. 2018-26.

The expressive and notably ripe nose is even spicier with its more deeply pitched combination of various dark berry liqueur-like aromas that are laced with earth, floral and game hints. There is more volume and power to the medium weight flavors that also possess a relatively fine mouth feel, all wrapped in a detailed finish that displays focused power and excellent depth and length. Good stuff.

Generous measures of sweet red currant fruit and spices with delicate geranium flower notes. A concentration of lovely ripe, stewed fruit on the palate with a touch of sweetness. A marvellously structured wine.

The 2014 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes, which includes 60% whole cluster fruit, has a clean and pure, detailed bouquet that is the "sister" of the 2014 Clos de Thorey.. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, nicely balanced but perhaps needing to develop more substance towards the finish. This is a good Nuits Saint Georges that might well meliorate significantly in bottle.

Moderately saturated medium red. A bit more subdued on the nose than the Clos de Thorey, hinting at red berries. Offers good texture and restrained sweetness to its red berry and spice flavors but this is hiding more than it's showing today (I should note that this wine was also reticent when I tasted it from barrel in late 2015). Nicely broad and round but I wanted a bit more personality and lift. The initially sweet tannins showed a touch of dry rusticity as the wine opened in the glass. For his part, Pierre Vincent noted that this cuvée is usually better than the Clos de Thorey but not in 2014.

Smoky cherry, spice and herb aromas and flavors mark this detailed, elegant red. Despite the lacy texture, this is stony and tight, with a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2036. From France.-B.S.