2015 Riesling Pfaffenberg Trockenbeerenausl Pichler-Krutzler 37,5cl

Based on botrytis-affected grapes from 60-year-old vines on the pure gneiss soils of the southwest-facing Steiner Pfaffenberg in the Kremstal, the golden-yellow colored 2015 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Pfaffenberg has a clear, fresh, concentrated, nicely piquant bouquet of lime and lemon chutney along with yellow stone fruit and grapefruit aromas. Sweet, round and elegant, with really piquant acidity and grip, this is a dense, intense and aromatic yet finessed TBA that was picked on November 12 and fermented up to 10.5% alcohol. The wine was bottled with no fining but two filtrations in late August 2016 with nearly 200 grams of residual sugar and a total acidity of 10.1 grams per liter. This TBA is clearly more piquant, angular and nervy compared to the lush and sensual Loibenberg TBA. It needs some years to calm down but can age for at least three decades.

This weighed in at slightly lower Oechsle than the corresponding Loibenberg, but it’s more differentiated in flavor while remaining every bit as rich. Peach and quince preserves are laced with cooling mint and studded with candied grapefruit rind, all of which elements are delightfully intimated on the nose. Confitured fruits gain further counterpoint on a glycerol-rich palate from pit piquancy, while juicy fresh lemon provides invigorating cut, cheek-tugging zest and eye-watering brightness. This finishes with vibratory intensity and superb sheer length, a lick of salt supplying saliva-inducement.