2017 Porseleinberg Syrah Swartland Boekenhoutskloof

Has any brand in South Africa achieved quite so much as Porseleinberg in less than a decade? This is the best vintage yet from this steep, brutal, extreme schist-rich site and that's saying a good deal. Big, bold and intense, with incredible, almost feral intensity, incense, tar and black pepper aromas and layers of inky dark fruit. A stunning wine from a stunning site, made by a gem of a winemaker. 2022-35.

Has any brand in South Africa achieved quite so much as Porseleinberg in less than a decade? This is the best vintage yet from this steep, brutal, extreme schist-rich site and that's saying a good deal. Big, bold and intense, with incredible, almost feral intensity, incense, tar and black pepper aromas and layers of inky dark fruit. A stunning wine from a stunning site, made by a gem of a winemaker. 2022-35.

The 2017 Syrah begins opaque in the glass. The nose is dense enough to cut with a knife, showing a rigid minerality and black-fruited core with a dusty minerality and dark purple floral tone that seems to be brooding. On the palate, the tannic nature attacks the palate and gum line with enough astringency to make a Barolo blush and was achieved by winemaking decisions. The palate has a density and mineral rusticity that seems too loud currently but will be very expressive and generous after a decade or more of aging. The finish is long and grippy, expressing black fruits with a rigid mineral backbone. If you're going to enjoy this wine while it's still young, you're going to need some food to pair with and settle its tannic nature. Only 1500 cases were made. 2023-2038.

The 2017 Porseleinberg has a compelling bouquet of blackberry, fynbos, Provençal herbs and veins of blue fruit, all showing stunning delineation and composure. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and pure blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with thyme, sage and white pepper. This is utterly refined and intense yet sophisticated. A quite stunning wine. 2022 - 2045.

This Swartland property is owned by Boekenhoutskloof but run independently by gifted winemaker Callie Louw. Alive and dynamic, this soars out of the glass, a touch of firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance on the palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty acidity. Very long, this crackles on and on. The handsome labels are produced at the estate on a vintage Heidelberg press - but don't assume there is any style over substance here: the 2017 Porseleinberg is a truly great Syrah. Drinking Window 2020 - 2032.

Pure fruit flavors of boysenberry and damson plum are ripe and focused in this suave, full-bodied red, enmeshed with a detailed range of iron, lavender, sage and dried orange peel notes. Fresh and sleek, a rich, harmonious version, with a streak of tangy iron emerging on the grippy finish. Drink now through 2032.

An expressive nose of red cherry, sage, rosemary, and black pepper. Full-bodied with fine, silky tannins. Fruity and energetic with wonderful intensity and depth. Savory red and black fruit wash over the palate with an abundance of delicious fresh herbs and ground spice. Long and gorgeous. Drink or hold.

Det er anden gang, jeg smager den her, og den er endnu mere fornem end sidste gang. Ren syrah, der smager af Côte Rôtie blandet med sydafrikansk hjertevarme og gamle vinstokke, tørrede urter til lokal gin og høj azurblå himmel. Måske ren indbildning, men sådan virker den på mig. Slank og rank, fornem, bidsk i syre og tannin, men kornene er fine. Eftersmagen har hvid peber og lugten af død, ja, sorry, men det er lidt ligesom hvid trøffel; den er bare ædel. Boekenhoutskloofs Marc Kent ledte efter passende kilder til sin Chocolate Block (se andetsteds) og fandt parcellen ved Porseleinberg, købte vinmager Callie Louw ind til projektet og besluttede at vinificere parcellen separat. Godt, han gjorde det.