92/94

The 2023 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, incidentally served after the Bâtard-Montrachet, has more complexity and a lovely sea spray influence on the nose. The palate is crisp and fresh, with more tension than the Bâtard and a sense of palpable energy toward the lightly spiced finish. This should age well in bottle.

92/95

(from a .46 ha holding). Elegant and perfumed aromas include those of honeysuckle, Asian style tea, the essence of spiced pear and a lovely combination of floral wisps, especially carnation and acacia. There is an abundance of sappy dry extract on the gorgeously textured medium-bodied flavors that possess superb length on the impeccably well-balanced finale. This stunningly good effort isn’t as concentrated as the Bâtard or as mineral-driven as the Chevalier but in 2023, it appears that the BBM takes best in the Vougeraie show, at least at this early juncture.