2023 Volnay Taillepieds 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

Coming from a vineyard that is one-third uprooted at the moment, the 2023 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru dials up the marine element on the nose: hints of seaweed and oyster shell percolate through dark berry fruit as a subtle pencil box note gradually emerges. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, nicely judged acidity and gentle grip on the finish. Stylish and suave, this is a very harmonious and pure Taillepieds that will be difficult to resist in its youth.

The 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds is also especially charming out of the gates this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of orange zest, dark berries, plums, vine smoke and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with refined tannins and a long, mineral finish. This is an especially suave Taillepieds that will offer a broad drinking window.

This is aromatically similar to the Caillerets if more floral in character. There is outstanding vibrancy and delineation to the equally beautifully textured medium weight flavors that are akin to rolling a tiny pebble around the mouth, all wrapped in a moderately austere and impressively persistent finale. While perhaps slightly riper than a classic Taillepieds, this is nonetheless excellent with the development potential to match. If you can find it, buy it.