2022 Gigondas Le Claux Château de Saint Cosme

Aromatically quite closed at the time of tasting, but this has power and vibrancy on the palate, there's a touch of sweetness to the fruit, which is dark and brooding cassis and blackberry. Generous in smooth, ripe fruit and stacked with an intense chewy layer of velvety tannin. Fresh and intense, this stands out for its sheer driving intensity and focus. No great flesh, but serious depth, and will make an impressive structural style of Gigondas when it's ready. From old vines, all whole-cluster fermented in concrete, no destemming, indigenous yeasts, and matured 100% in barriques; one third new, one third second use, one third third use.

Robust, floral and intense. 100% old-vine grenache, expressing aromas of wild berries, sweet cherries, orange peel, dried flowers, grilled herbs and loads of spices. It’s full-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Juicy at the center with so much energy. It’s vibrant and focused with good drive in the finish. Bright and agile. From organically grown grapes with Ecocert certification.

Since my tasting last year from barrel, the 2022 Gigondas Le Claux greatly benefitted from the rest of the élevage, with its tannins now more refined and a wonderful sense of harmony throughout. A swirl of the glass reveals aromas of lush forest strawberry, red and black plum, cedar, rosewater and a pinch of dried herbs. This detailed and focused Le Claux stands out from the crowd, finishing with a lingering persistence.

There's a lot to love in this ethereal red, with stunning purity and allure. The perfumed nose is marked by black fruit, pepper, smoked bacon and tobacco, with smoky oolong tea in the backdrop. Concentrated yet doesn't feel weighed down, with fine, chalky tannins landing the finish, which stretches out in effortless harmony and reveals earthy tugs of tar and juniper. Its beautiful suppleness makes this approachable now, but this will also go the distance in the cellar.

A classic wine from this terroir, the 2022 Gigondas La Claux has a beautiful ruby/purple hue as well as textbook notes of ripe red and black fruit, graphite, camphor, and savory herbs. It's wonderfully balanced, full-bodied, has ripe, polished tannins, and a beautiful sense of elegance and purity.