2011 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne Domaine Rostaing

More substantial, with a meaty, muscular feel, the 2011 Cote Rotie La Landonne exhibits lots of olive tapenade, underbrush, crushed rock and blackberry-styled fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, nicely concentrated (especially for a 2011) and yet voluptuously textured, with moderate, fine tannin, it will round into form relatively early, yet evolve gracefully for 15-20 years.

Opaque ruby. Ripe blackberry, blueberry and potpourri on the highly perfumed nose. Broad, sweet and seamless on the palate, delivering intense dark fruit compote flavors and suggestions of licorice and bitter chocolate. A spicy quality adds lift and bite to the finish, which clings with excellent clarity and smooth, slow-building tannins.

Shows juicy energy, with savory, pomegranate, red currant, iron and singed anise notes all woven together and backed by a long, iron-tinged finish that lets the sanguine hint echo. Drink now through 2021.-J.M.