2012 Drappier Champagne Grande Sendrée

92P+: Aged for ten years in bottle and clay tanks, this is still very fresh and lively on the nose and palate. The aromas of dried rose petals from the Pinot Noir are still strong, blended with the fresh citrusy acidity of the Chardonnay. The finish is long, with mineral and slightly spicy notes on the finish. A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%) that has great aging potential. Only first press wine used, it is bottled unfiltered, with with 4.5 g/L dosage (the liqueur is aged fifteen years in oak). This Champagne’s pretty bottle is a replica of a Louis XV model that was found in the Urville cellars. The wine takes its name from the cinders that covered the vineyards in the aftermath of the great fire that destroyed much of Urville in 1836; a land registry spelling mistake after the fact led to the wine’s name being spelled with an “s” instead of the correct “c” (the word should be cendrée, not sendrée). Drinking window: 2024-2030.

House based in Urville, Aube. NM 51% Pinot Noir, 49% Chardonnay. 50% oak fermentation with 6 years on lees. Fruit from one vineyard next to the winery. Rather than a bigger or bolder style than the rest of the portfolio, Grande Sendrée is actually notable for its refinement and balance, even in a ripe vintage such as 2012. Honey and spiced apple offer up a warming welcome, with some deep dried pear and tropical fruit intensity beneath and a shade of drying nuttiness. This is a gastronomic cuvée with some real persistence and presence.

Elegant and layered, with notes of lemons, white peaches, pears, nutmeg and almond croissants. It’s salty, dry and sophisticated, with very fine bubbles. Drink now or hold. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. 4 g/L dosage.