2014 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Blain-Gagnard

As is usually the case this is riper than the Caillerets with its spicy compote-scented aromas of ginger, pear, white peach, apricot and yellow peach. There is outstanding volume and richness to the overtly powerful broad-shouldered flavors that possess seriously good complexity on the sappy and palate coating finish that also seems to just go on and on. This is tighter and more focused than usual and while it will certainly be approachable young it should also amply reward extended cellaring. I quite like this and in 2014 it is a match for the Bâtard.

There are three and a half barrels of the 2014 Criots Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru this year, not much but more than the previous two years. There is a tangible sea influence on the nose - crustacean scents infusing the citrus fruit, plus lemon thyme and a touch of tarragon. The palate is fresh and poised, fine weight in the mouth with good acidity, though the finish feels quite backward and it will clearly need two or three years in bottle. There is good potential here.