2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1. Cru Les Goulots Vieilles Vignes Domaine Fourrier

Very small premier cru. Cool, northernmost part of the village near Combe aux Moine and highest at 300 m right next to the forest. East facing, steep. Took Jean-Marie Fourrier 14 years to understand the site. Intense dark wild fruit, like tiny black berries, definitely has the cool influence in the fruit character. Dry and stony on the palate, the site giving a very definite mineral quality with less obvious fruit on the palate than on the nose. Bone dry, chalky texture. Extreme elegance and slimly built but long. (JH) Drink 2024-2034 .

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with scents of kirsch, Morello cherries, orange blossom and light cassis aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black cherry and boysenberry fruit, quite firm in terms of grip with a little rigidity on the finish that should mellow by the time this is bottled. I like the energy here, but it will probably require four or five years in bottle.