2017 Gigondas Domaine Raspail-Ay

Tasted blind. Nappyish reduction makes the nose a little wild, but the palate bursts forth with generous, ripe red-fruit and milk-chocolate character. Chewy and furry on the finish, but not aggressively so, and the quality of fruit on the palate suggests that both nose and structure will improve with time. (RH) Drink 2021-2031

The 2017 Gigondas is a beauty, and Southern Rhône lovers owe it to themselves to have bottles of Raspail-Ay in their cellar. A blend of 70% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre, brought up all in very old foudres, it offers a vivid ruby color as well as a smorgasbord of Provençal goodness in its kirsch, sappy flowers, incense, ground pepper, and obvious minerality. Reminding me of the 1990 with its sexy, charming character, this concentrated, perfectly balanced effort will drink nicely with short-term cellaring and keep for two decades. Unfortunately, no 2018 was submitted.

The 2017 Gigondas from Raspail-Ay may even eclipse the 2016. It boasts gorgeous raspberry, cherry and stone fruit up front and a full-bodied, creamy-textured mid-palate. The tannins are supple, turning firmer and drier on the long, peppery-salty finish. Traditionally made in concrete and aged in foudre, this historic estate continues to turn out a single winning wine each vintage.

Brilliant ruby. High-toned aromas of red/blue fruit preserves and candied flowers, along with a bright, spicy topnote. Shows sharp focus and lift to juicy black raspberry, boysenberry and lavender pastille flavors, which slowly spread out on the back half. Finishes smoky, subtly sweet and impressively long, with mounting tannins and a whiplash of sweet blue fruit.