2019 Tabuerniga Rioja Telmo Rodriguez

Tabuérniga sits in an amphitheatre in Labastida, facing east towards San Vicente de la Sonsierra and is a series of terraces between 540 and 630 metres that add up to 2.7 hectares. Deeper in colour than the other single vineyard releases from Bodega Lanzaga, it has intense flavours of tangerine, blackberry and blood orange, lots of acidity, layered tannins and understated oak.

The 2019 Tabuerniga comes from a dry year with low yields that resulted in good ripeness and health of the grapes. Tabuérniga and Las Beatas were two of the few vineyards not affected by the frost on May 6th, and the Graciano ripened at the same time as the Tempranillo and both varieties were harvested together the 14th of October. It fermented in 3,000-liter open-top oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured in 1,500-liter oak vats for 14 to 16 months. The wine has 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.69. I found the wine to be superb, serious, austere and a little closed, a bit reductive even (which winemaker Pablo Eguzkiza told me could be because of the higher percentage of Graciano in this vineyard), in a style that I love. I've always had a soft spot for this wine, and this vintage is no exception; I found it superb, elegant and subtle, textured and refined with gobsmacking balance and depth. Simply superb. 2,019 bottles were filled in May 2021. 2022 - 2032

This is showing real depth and purity with freshness and precision. Subtle, spiced blueberries, black cherries, oyster-shell minerality, dried flowers and wild herbs on the nose, following through to a full-bodied palate that’s full of vertical, dusty tannins. Powerful, tense and long, but never hefty. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better to give this time and try after 2025.