2014 Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis Guigal

Peppery nose and sinewy structure. Quite salty and muscular. Needs time. Cool and uncommunicative. Very chewy end. Hint of cooking apples.

A very intense and dark-fruited syrah that has bacon fat, blackberry, mocha and a whole swathe of baking spices on offer. The palate is super-succulent, long and juicy with fine but dense, chalky tannins. Super-long, dark-plum and mocha finish. The tautness here is impressive! Long life ahead. Try in 2022.

Looking much the same as it did last year when I tasted it just after bottling, the 2014 Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis is a slightly lighter-bodied version of this cuvée, which is a blend of seven lieux-dits. Hints of green olive join floral notes and crisp, red-fruited flavors in this medium to full-bodied wine that still needs another two to three years of cellaring, but it should drink well for at least a decade after that.

Deep bright-rimmed ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of ripe dark berries, cherry pie, olive and pungent flowers are sharpened by a suggestion of peppery spices. Supple and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated blackberry, cherry cola and violet pastille flavors and an exotic suggestion of star anise. Finishes pure, sweet and focused on the penetrating finish, showing outstanding focus and smooth tannins. Drink: 2022-2031.

This is frankly toasted, with mocha and bacon notes leading off. The core of dark currant and cherry preserve flavors has the stuffing to match, while singed bay leaf and dried sage accents infuse the finish. Shows the cool profile of the vintage, along with very admirable depth and ripeness. Best from 2021 through 2038.