2019 Roda Reserva Rioja

Making the most of what Agustín Santolaya considers the best vintage since 2001, the regular Roda release marries Tempranillo with 5% Graciano and 4% Garnacha from the Rioja Alta and Oriental sub-regions. Full-bodied but not overpoweringly so, this is layered and well structured, with scented 40% new wood, serious dark berry fruit and a balsamic lift. Modern yet traditional at the same time.

The wines are quite transparent of the vintage conditions, with the 2019 Roda being round, lush and velvety, with polished and sleek tannins and more volume and concentration, reflecting a low-yielding, warm and dry year. This is a cuvée with more red than black fruit produced with 91% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 4% Garnacha from 30-year-old vines fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in French barriques, 50% of them new, the other 50% second-use for 14 months.

Very recognisable as Rioja reserva, this displays balance and poise with a lovely use of well-integrated, chocolatey and graphite oak. Blueberry fruit on the palate gives way to black pepper spice and present but well-managed tannins that frame the wine. It is approachable now but has a long life ahead. 93% Tempranillo, 4% Graciano and 3% Garnacha from low-yielding bush vines in Haro and its surrounding villages, undergoing spontaneous fermentation in French oak vats followed by 14 months' ageing in 40% new and 60% second-use French oak barrels, then 20 months cellaring in bottle.