2013 Campo San Giorgio Rosso Conero Riserva Umani Ronchi

An elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, with fine- grained tannins and a delicate skein of spice and graphite unraveling through flavors of ripe black currant, thyme, smoky mineral and dried fig. Long and lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2029.

This is the top-shelf wine from Umani Ronchi. The 2013 Conero Riserva Campo San Giorgio is made in limited quantities, with 5,280 bottles and 40 magnums produced in this vintage. Fruit comes from a small section of a single-vineyard planting. This is a pure expression of the Montepulciano grape, and the wine was first made in 2009. The bouquet is ample and wide, showing dark fruit tones, with blackberry and cherry in generous supply. Thanks to a sophisticated aging regime that takes the wine through one year of barrique followed by another year in large oak cask, you are also treated to pretty aromas of smoke, spice and tobacco. This is an important wine with the structure and backbone to pair with a fine cut of steak.