2015 Craggy Range Aroha Pinot Noir Te Muna Rd Martinborough

Dense, rich pinot noir with sweet plum, dark berry, floral, violet, spice, anise and nutty oak flavours. Intense, flavoursome wine that is deliciously accessible now but has a promising future. The wine has a perfect balance of fruit sweetness and ripe tannins. It is long and layered with impressive complexity.

This is one of New Zealand's icon wineries, with prime vineyards in Hawke's Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago. Senior winemakers Adrian Baker and Rod Easthope work with Steve Smith MW to prove that, for oak, and extraction, 'less is more'. The vibrant fruit of their wine will repay cellaring.

A terrific follow-up to the outstanding 2014, this has a neat interplay of power and silky elegance that gets to the core of great pinot noir. Plenty of brambly and spicy ripe red cherries and plums, then there's a silky flow of tannins that builds and expands in impressive style. An extremely smart pinot noir. Drink now and for some years to come.

Clean compost, vanilla and plum all appear on the nose of the top-of-the-line 2015 Pinot Noir Aroha. It's medium to full-bodied, with big fruit-black cherries, plums, cola-and copious silky tannins. Not made in a huge, blockbuster style, it still makes an impression for its combination of approachability and complexity. It should make for exciting drinking over the next decade. 2017 - 2025.

Complex and savory, with a muscular backbone of minerality an roasted herb flavor, giving way to blackberry and spiced plum notes and details of Earl Grey tea and crushed pine needle. Find balance between power and effortlessness, especially on the detailed finish. Drink now through 2028.-M.W.