98 Poäng

There is something brutal about the wines from El Cepillo, especially those that most clearly reflect the terroir at the southern end of the Uco Valley, an arid mountain area where frosts are frequent. This is 85% cabernet franc, and the rest is malbec, planted about 1,300 meters above sea level at the foot of the Andes. And it has that brutal, somewhat wild side that recalls the landscape of El Cepillo. The tannins are fierce, and the aromas are herbal rather than fruity (although there are many fruit notes). The palate is full of delicious juiciness, and the acidity is intense and firm. The winemaker, Alejandro Vigil, has abandoned the 225-liter barrels for concrete vessels because he believes that oak adds sweetness and distorts the freshness of the mountain. The result is respect for the place, for the sense of origin. And for us, that is almost everything.

96 Poäng

The 2021 Cabernet Franc Gran Enemigo El Cepillo was sourced from El Cepillo, a sunlit plain in the Uco Valley with a gentle southward slope extending over 1,000 meters above sea level. This purple-hued Franc contains 15% Malbec and was aged for a year in barrels and foudres. It unfolds a range of fruit aromas from blackberry to dried plum, cassis and redcurrant, expanding with a hint of ash, cedar and a dash of mountain herbs. It finishes dry and compact with fine, chalky-textured tannins and a subtle line of extract. True to El Cepillo’s character, it shows a light concentration and black fruit tones that reflect the terroir. This wine promises to evolve beautifully in the bottle—no doubt about it.

99 Poäng

Aromas of black licorice, iodine and blackberries with hints of nutmeg. Medium- to full-bodied with a super structure yet at the same time polish and finesse. Extremely long and attractive with energy and polish. The glacial soil and western aspect of the vineyard make this special. Better in two or three years and beyond.

98 Poäng

Between the phenomenal El Cepillo and Gualtallary bottlings, the 2021 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard is, by a hair, the spectacular runner-up. The vineyard was planted in 1999 on colluvial limestone soils, with 10,000 plants per hectare. It was barrel fermented with 40% whole clusters before maturing for 15 months in 100-year-old foudre and contains 15% Malbec. The nose opens with a distinct bouquet of black licorice and anise that continuously gains prominence within a blue- and purple-fruited profile that always keeps fruit tucked deftly in the background. The palate is the quintessence of finessed, plush density, culminating in a refined, composed and sophisticated finish propelled by immense saturation, mineral-inflected energy and grainless yet grippy tannins. While I perceived the slightest bit more grace and dimension in the Gualtallary bottling, this is a breathtaking example of Uco Valley Cabernet Franc that should drink fabulously into its second decade.

98 Poäng

From another high-density vineyard, the 2021 Cabernet Franc Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard is grown in colluvial soils with marine limestone beneath. Angular and linear, it has classic elements of dried herb, currant, and peppery spice, with subtle oak and medium-bodied intensity. Another grand study in Cab Franc's beautiful place in Mendoza, cellar it through 2041.