2009 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline Côte-Blonde Guigal

The 2009 Cote Rotie La Mouline possesses off-the-charts richness. Like all the vintages, it comes from the Cote Blonde and is co-fermented with 11% Viognier. Its 13.5% alcohol is one of the highest in all the La Moulines made to date, which shows you that these wines are never that powerful. Extraordinary layers of concentration offer up notes of roasted coffee, sweet black cherries, black raspberries, blackberries, licorice and hints of spring flowers as well as lychee nuts (no doubt attributable to the floral/honeysuckle character of Viognier). With its full-bodied, extravagant richness, the 2009 La Mouline should be relatively approachable in 1-2 years, and last for two decades or more.

Inky ruby. A heady, powerfully scented bouquet evokes cassis, blueberry, licorice and mocha, with a smoky nuance building with air. Silky and seamless on the palate, offering deep dark fruit liqueur flavors sharpened by gentle acidity and a peppery note. Clings with impressive tenacity on the spice- and mineral-tinged finish, leaving a sweet floral pastille note behind. Decidedly rich for this bottling, but that's the vintage.

Dense and grippy now, with roasted alder, bittersweet ganache and freshly roasted espresso notes leading the way, though there's a very dense core of crushed plum, black currant and blackberry fruit in reserve. A gorgeous charcoal stitching takes over on the finish. Offers loads of muscle, but also terrific cut and drive through the finish. Best from 2015 through 2040. 416 cases made.- J.M.