2012 Volnay 1. Cru Les Chevrets Henri Boillot

Riper, more convincing fruit than their Frémiets. Tight, refreshing palate and fine tannins. Just slightly lacking oomph and body. (RH)

The 2012 Volnay Les Chevrets is magnificent. Deeply spiced layers of dark fruit open up on the palate, followed by smoke, tar and licorice. This is the deepest and most intense of the Boillot Volnays. Like all of the wines in this range, the fruit is packed, resonant and beautifully expressive. The 2012 is going to need a few years, to unwind, but it is undeniably beautiful. Production from two hectares of vineyards was 9 barrels instead of 30. 2017 - 2032

(from 25+ year old vines). A brooding and distinctly meaty nose displays plenty of earth and sauvage notes to the dark berry fruit aromas. There is good volume and phenolic maturity to the velvet-textured mediumbodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract, all wrapped in a discreetly mineral-inflected finish that is slightly firmer than that of the Volnay villages. 2019+

(13.3% natural alcohol): Deep red-ruby. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, coffee liqueur and nutty oak. Dense, sappy and deep, displaying a liqueur-like ripeness to its flavors of black raspberry and underbrush. Very dense, almost roasted wine with plenty of powerful ripe tannins to give it staying power. - Stephen Tanzer