2012 Volnay Taillepieds 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

(from a 1.07 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines; note that .4 ha was just grubbed up for replanting). A touch of reduction is just enough to shave the top notes off the otherwise pure and elegant nose so I would suggest decanting this if you're tempted to try a bottle young. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension and excellent delineation to the mineral-driven and overtly saline flavors that display fine depth on the impressively persistent and well-balanced finish that exhibits plenty of the classic austerity of a young Taillepieds. In the category of a very minor nit there is a hint of warmth but I quite liked this anyway.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds has developed the most attractive bouquet of Guillaume's premier crus with harmonious notes of ripe crushed strawberry, red currant and orange blossom scents that exhibit more vigor and panache than the Caillerets or the Fremiets. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe and supple tannins. This is well-balanced, silky smooth in texture with fine tension on the quite regal finish. There is a little Cote de Nuits in this Cote de Beaune! Drink 2015- 2028.

Full, deep red. Vibrant aromas of wild cherry, spices and mocha. Juicy, sweet and stylish, conveying a distinctly sappy quality to its flavors of dark cherry and licorice. The superb building back end shows very firm tannins and a chocolatey whiplash of flavor. Great potential here. - Stephen Tanzer