2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru La Vougeraie

50% whole bunch: one vat destemmed and one, with the old vine fruit, entirely whole bunch. Medium deep purple. Brisk fresh red fruit. As often at this domaine, the wine starts quietly then builds in intensity, really kicking on without changing out of the red fruit register. Substantial.

Fermented with 50% whole clusters, this smells of black currants, blackberries and forest floor. It is firm with concentrated fruit, tangy lift and brisk tannins. Give this a few years to settle down, unless you prefer a more vigorous style of Pinot Noir.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from two parcels, the one towards the top of the parcel providing the 70% whole bunch. The nose is fresh, taut and quite mineral-driven with black cherries, raspberry and light rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine tension, quite poised with a bit of sinew towards the finish. It will require 4-6 years in bottle just to shave those edges, but I appreciate here the spicy aftertaste.

(from an exceptionally well positioned 1 ha parcel situated directly beneath Les Petits Musigny that is combined with another less well located .35 ha parcel close to the main road; 50% whole clusters). This is also aromatically quite floral in character with its blend of purple fruit, earth and anise wisps. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the delineated and powerful larger-bodied flavors where the supporting tannins are dense but fine on the balanced and youthfully austere finale. This offers fine development potential and is a wine that will need at least some patience.

Though this red is oaky, there's also a whole-cluster feel to it, with sandalwood and vegetal aromas synching with flavors of black currant and blackberry. Iron and sweet baking spices chime in as this plays out on the lingering aftertaste, showing fine balance.