2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru La Vougeraie

(from an exceptionally well positioned 1 ha parcel situated directly beneath Les Petits Musigny that is combined with another less well located .35 ha parcel close to the main road). This too is quite firmly reduced and unreadable today. Otherwise there is a bit more size and weight to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess even better mid-palate density before terminating in a markedly complex, powerful and driving finish that displays the usual youthful austerity of a classic Clos de Vougeot. Very fine quality in a built-to-age package. (92-95)/2032+

Offering up a deep bouquet of wild berries, cassis and plums mingled with grilled game, spices and woodsmoke, Domaine de la Vougeraie's 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into a voluminous mid-palate that's framed by ripe acids and velvety, almost melting tannins. While some bottle age will be rewarded, this is a very accessible Clos de Vougeot that's more about amplitude and finesse than overt structure.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from 1.05 hectares of vine in two parcels. This year contains 50% whole bunch fruit. The tightly-knit bouquet was showing some reduction when I tasted it from barrel. The palate is more representative: quite grippy and masculine, saline on the back palate, with a spicy, sage- and oregano-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Give this three or four years in bottle 2022 - 2038