2020 Meursault 1. Cru Charmes Domaine Ballot Millot

The holding is at the top of upper Charmes where there is just 40cm of top soil. Mid lemon and lime in colour, with a mineral reduction on the nose, alongside a powerful concentration of fruit. Many layers building on the nose, ripe citrus peel among pears, more exotic behind. A rich bright texture, this has not quite fallen clear and that also shows in the flesh of the palate. More lees give the fat but this will refine, and be top class.

The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes has turned out especially well, perhaps unsurprisingly given the parcel's location in an enclave within Lafon's holdings next to the Tessier family's block. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange oil, pear, clear honey, toasted nuts and iodine that are framed by a deft touch of reduction, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with tangy acids and a long, saline finish. Just typing up this tasting note prompted me to add a few bottles to my cellar.