2021 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru La Vougeraie

A glowing palish purple. The whole bunches (100%) change everything. This is classic Vougeraie and very stylish. The nose is an absolute bomb of vigorous and very pure fresh red fruit. A wonderful expression, with enough fruit weight to carry it through. Good acidity with a fresh citrus note alongside the perfumed raspberries. Persistent.

Wow! Made with 100% whole cluster, this is wildly aromatic. It smells of drying rose petals, evergreen forest and mint. The palate is firm between the nippy tannins and firm acidity. There is correct mid-palate concentration and a profoundly long finish. The structural elements are there, but this is in an awkward stage.

(from a .70 ha parcel of vines near the Morey border, 50% of which were planted in 1902; 100% whole clusters). An overtly floral nose features pretty red berry fruit aromas that are nuances by hints of spice and soft earth. The super-sleek, racy, intense and pure middleweight flavors possess a really lovely texture while exhibiting fine detail on the lightly mineral-inflected, moderately austere and saline finish. This is a relatively refined BM though one that should easily repay extended keeping if desired as it’s structured but not overly backward.

The 0.70-hectare parcel of Bonnes Mares belonging to Domaine de la Vougeraie was purchased by Boisset from the heirs of Pierre Ponnelle in 1985. It lies at the foot of the vineyard, below one of the Roumier parcels, on the border with Morey. Given its location it is oddly less substantial than these other examples, with high-toned currant and pomegranate fruit aromas, floral and menthol notes, fresh acidity and an pleasant elegance that is somewhat out of character for Bonnes-Mares. The grapes are farmed biodynamically, fermented as whole clusters, and fermented (even in '21) as 100% whole clusters.